HITOMI LIU
Posted on October 17 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Hitomi Liu graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

The inspiration her graduate collection, Réflexion, is the life of the 24-year-old Hitomi herself and she is mixing it with the Japanese Shinto culture. The young designer believes that the world needs some colors; she is using contrasting light colors to express this message in the collection.

Collection description by Kulanthi Silva – Master in Fashion Writing

Hitomi Liu graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

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GALLIANO FOR MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Posted on October 13 in Linda Loppa, NEWS

Polimoda [i]Solution - Li.Dia

The decision of Renzo Rossi, CEO of Diesel, to nominate Mr Galliano as designer for the haute couture collections of Maison Martin Margiela drew attention to the brand again and therefore is in itself a success. Commenting on this fact is irrelevant; discussions about whether Mr Galliano deserves a second chance or not is not my main preoccupation and concern. The protagonists of the brand have disappeared, exhausted by trying to keep their integrity. The discussion is therefore based on how the fashion system should evolve and why Renzo Rossi was not able to find a younger designer – fresh, contemporary with a less dramatic aura around him, than John Galliano.

The aim of this appointment is linked too much to the visibility that Maison Martin Margiela needs at the moment because its collections today are bad imitations of the basic and iconic elements of the house; the fabrics and ideas are poor replicas of what they once were and it seems nobody can tap into the essence of the style and tailoring Martin so brilliantly conceived. I would like to examine the meaning of the term ‘Haute Couture’ and find out if tailoring is still the main goal of this sphere, where more young designers are coming on the scene but do not always respect the high standards of luxury, beauty and elegance that ‘Haute Couture’ should embody. It should be a laboratory of ideas for designers where they could have time to study new techniques, patterns and body shapes and fabrics that reflect the new technologies and show the way to the future of the fashion system. ‘Haute Couture’ should become a laboratory, an institute that is accessible to designers, artists, researchers, architects, scientists and curators where they can experiment and design a new world, discuss and debate with buyers, retailors, consumers to re-design a sector that is losing itself in an increasingly frenetic rhythm where the collections are not very interesting, and exhaust all the people involved.

It becomes embarrassing to see what a low ebb creativity is at today despite so many fashion schools and programs delivering highly educated designers capable of turning the fashion system into a more interesting field; some companies are concerned by the disappearance of the generation of craftsmen and women; they should study the phenomenon of the dying dream of the Fashion Designer, the individual who is the creative brain behind a name. This is what I think following today’s nomination and John Galliano’s come-back as a designer for a label and name that changed the history of Fashion – not with a theatrical approach – but with a concept that was humble, honest, emotionally strong but most of all intellectually rich in thought and reflection.

Linda Loppa

 


Image Credits
Photography: Letizia Francini Naldi
Installation: Lidia Kasprzak & Akshita Garud for [i]Solution

 

BARBARA SANCHEZ-KANE
Posted on October 10 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Barbara Sanchez-Kane graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Mexican heritage and culture. A combination of strength and the Mask of the ‘Lucha Libre’ (freestyle wrestling), together with the Perception of Love inherited from her family. “Catch Wrestling” to challenge acquired perceptions. Strangely fun. Strength against heart; are just a few phrases that best describe her collection: Catch As Catch Can. Cues are taken from the Kama Sutra, without highlighting the eroticism. Holds depicting love. One sided Jackets suggest the need to find the other half. Greens, blues, reds, yellows: a perfect color palette.

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TESS TAELMAN
Posted on October 3 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Tess Taelman graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Tess Taelman sees beauty in unconventional places. For her collection, For Leo’s Eyes Only, the Belgian designer looks to King Leopold II and his colonization of the Congo for inspiration. As she quite bluntly puts it, “Basically, I’m making fun of my king.” Through powerful utilitarian silhouettes she reshapes the past into a humorous provocation. Nylon football flags indulgence bomber jackets and trousers to some “Belgian sarcasm”, while military jackets further subvert the country’s history. Rubber from bicycle and truck tyres is reused as structural protective layer and, keeping with the collection’s irreverent twists, alludes to the exploitation of the rubber labourers in the Congo. Through a critically whimsical perspective of Belgian history, Tess constructs a collection with functionality, depth, and most importantly, a sense of humour.

Collection description by Luisa Farani – Master in Fashion Writing

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[i]SOLUTION
Posted on October 2 in EVENTS, TALENTS

Styling by Lidia Kasprzak / Photography by Ruggero Lupo Mengoni

Installation exhibition of the final projects created by the students of the Masters in Fashion Styling and Fashion Communication

On 6 October, Villa Favard will host a presentation of the projects resulting from the collaboration between students of the international Master courses in Fashion Styling and Fashion Communication. For the occasion, young stylists and communicators have worked together in pairs to create an image, a communication project and finally an installation that represents their vision on the concept [I]Solution. The students of the Styling course curated and completed a photographic shoot, while those of the Communication course developed a communication strategy, both with the aim of promoting a product linked to the world of fashion. Finally, as a team, they conceived the final presentation of their ideas to the public.

[i]Solution official logo

The result has been the production of nine multi-sensorial installations, each one of which develops the initial idea of the image through some of the elements used to create it. In this way, the images have come to life, offering visitors the chance to try something unique and surreal. Playing with the minds of their spectators, capturing their senses in an exhilarating, non-conventional escape from reality through their own unique vision, the students invite the public to take stock of their personal [I]Solution – the fil rouge of the event.

Monday 6 October, Villa Favard
The exhibition will be open to the public from 3pm to 6pm.
The students will be present to illustrate their work.

THE INSTALLATIONS

The Warrior – Ana Lucia Ordonez Baquero, Akshata Hiranandani & Tarini Sud
Hope – Ebony Nengimote Tochi Nwuke & Palak Kabra
Isolated Reality – Viera Okanikova & Astha Sekhawat
Self in Nothingness – Costina Iordache & Galina Logushkova
The Sleep Paralysis – Enji Yue Wang & Maartje Van Hooij
Utopia – Kalina Teller & Maria Luisa Guerra
Injected Intelligence- Yun He & Olga Kurochkina
Fragments of the Imaginari – Xiaoyang Sunny Liu & Danielle Shannon
Li Dia – Lidia Kasprzak & Akshita Garud

FRANCESCA REBERSCHEGG
Posted on September 26 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Francesca Reberschegg graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Following a desire to find the roots of this unique surname, Reberchegg, led to the exploration of her family history way before the World War II. From Graz (Austria) to Zara (Croatia) to concentration camps in Germany, you will witness many elements of Reconstruction from Destruction in her garments. An evident connection with the French contemporary artist Baptiste Debombourh in materials like pins, mirrors and paints. Smart use of seam-sealing tapes makes the fabric wearable ‘inside-out’, without making it heavy. Elements of her Croatian Grandfather’s ethnical costumes, vintage jackets; all functional. Blues, oranges, and fuchsia pinks are the dominant colors. The use of multicolored prints – taking hints from her grandfather pictures. Blends of nylon, neoprene, cotton, wool, and knitwear.

Collection description by Neha Singla – Master in Fashion Writing

Francesca Reberschegg graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

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CATERINA PAPINI
Posted on September 19 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Caterina Papini graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Two Me, the summer collection of Caterina Papini unites Africa and Europe. Wide volumes and bright tones are derived from the culture of Benin. The fur effect is instead inspired by Tuscan weavers of the Italian town Campi Bisenzio who, during the First World War, created large braids of straw. Caterina has revived this craft, passed on from her grandmother, using white mesh fabrics with decorations from shaved ‘pontova’ raffia or fur. Each combination is actually made from two separate garments that are sewn together at the back, resulting in one single piece. Volumes are large compared to the proportions of the body.

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FRANCESCA CASERTA
Posted on September 12 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Francesca Caserta graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Two photographs as a starting point. An Indian Sadhu of the present day and an Italian woman of the ‘50s. Different subjects in different places but they seem to share the same emotions and have equally inspired Francesca Caserta in the creation of her fall/winter women’s collection Hydrangea. From India we find the colours, red and fuchsia, while from the ‘50s Italian woman, the classic and ubiquitous twin-sets, both with skirts and trousers, revisited with a modern twist. The silhouettes are well structured and defined by trench coats, jackets and coats and the group of outfits, complemented by flat shoes, are designed to be stylish and comfortable at the same time.

Collection description by Martina Giambi – Master in Fashion Writing

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TIM BLANKS
Posted on September 8 in EVENTS, Q&A

Tim Blanks at Polimoda

FASHION UNDER [PRESS]URE

On July 16th, the star of Polimoda Guest Lectures was Tim Blanks, a figure of international renown and one of the most influential journalists in the sector, who will open a Q&A, Questions and Answers session on the subject of Fashion Under [Press]ure.

Editor-at-Large of Style.com, with his distinctive pungent and punchy style Tim Blanks doesn’t simply talk about fashion, he analyses it as a “cultural phenomenon” using different languages including writing and video, as in his memorable reviews of the runways or the video throwbacks in which he revisits key moments in the fashion of recent years. His reports on the fashion shows are authentic exercises in comprehension and intuition. His concise, technical language explores both the cultural context and the industrial aspect of fashion. His evidence helps us to get a clearer understanding of how much fashion is influenced by the media and, above all, how the role of journalists has been transformed by the web, which has radically revolutionised the experience of fashion, putting it literally under [press]ure through an increasingly rapid communication, almost real-time.

Tim Blanks at Polimoda with Linda Loppa, Danilo Venturi and Patrick de Muynck

With his unconventional and critical eye, Tim Blanks is acknowledged as an opinion-leader the world over and his thought is a perfect synthesis of the approach of the Master in Fashion Writing, one of the specialisations that Polimoda has targeted, recognising the strategic importance of the journalist and those who work in fashion communication. The Master in Fashion Writing addresses in an exhaustive manner all the aspects of writing related to fashion with a view to training future journalists, fashion show reporters, creative writers for fashion agencies and advertising agencies and professional bloggers. The fashion writers operate within the industry on a number of fronts: they know how to recognise and describe the latest trends, they work for fashion magazines on paper or online editions, for marketing and communication agencies, performing key roles for the brands. Fashion writers are today’s opinion leaders, as proved by the illustrious cases of Tim Blanks (Style.com), Suzy Menkes (New York Times), Imran Amed (Business of Fashion) and Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist), to name but a few. Through the Master in Fashion Writing Polimoda aims to stimulate the critical and creative capacity of its students to consider fashion as a complex phenomenon in which creativity and industry come together, helping them to develop a personal point of view that can call into question or throw up new perspectives.

Tim Blanks is a perfect example of the importance of the fashion writer, a “Dante” of our times and a visionary whose work although “intangible” nevertheless leaves its mark on the fashion and communication system.

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VITTORIA BURASCHI
Posted on September 5 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Vittoria Buraschi graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Vittoria Buraschi is fascinated by the excellence and century’s old traditions of Turin and Siena where she was born and raised. Vittoria named her collection after reading Forse che Sì, Forse che No, a novel by the author Gabriele D’annunzio. She grew up watching the annual ‘Palio’ horse races in Siena. The uncertainty in race betting has inspired her collection. Eight menswear garments, made using baby llama wool, light wool and embroidered leather in blue, white and ivory. Accessories include headpieces made from buckles and straps formed in the shape of a lily to resemble virginity and innocence. The collection is dedicated to an innocent man who is however, daring enough to do things differently.

Collection description by Kulanthi Silva – Master in Fashion Writing

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HOW TO WRITE THE MEMENTO TO BE MOMENTED
Posted on September 3 in Danilo Venturi, IFFTI

Momenting the Memento

Before writing you must be able to read.
Exploit other authors, not just to quote them and demonstrate your intellect, but exploit them for inspiration. Read something vertically, or start from the end, and don’t pay too much attention about what an author is trying to say, instead, highlight what you are interested in, your opinions, the key words among what you read, connect them to your life experience, mix them with other sources (e.g. a song, a movie, a painting), and come up with your own concept.

Ignore your audience.
Just write, gather what you wrote into chapters, give a title to your collection, and contact a publisher. If you previously plan the book with a third party you will never be free to write what you want, the way you want, or be able to change your mind along the way. Ignore readers too, because many of them will not completely understand what you are trying to say, and worse still, you will find that some will want to have the last word on what you have written.

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FELICE PIACENZA
Posted on July 31 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Felice Piacenza graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Felice Piacenza was born into “a world of wool and cashmere” and raised amongst fabric specialists. His relatives founded Piacenza textiles in 1733. The designer explores a re-interpretation of menswear by fusing his family history with elements of the Indian Ladakhi tribe. Felice understands his fabrics and enjoys exploring them under new perspectives. For his graduating collection Skandha he proposes double wools, cashmere, quilted knits, cotton, alpaca and a crease-free cotton-neoprene blend. Amongst the collection’s highlights are coats with double necklines, ruched armholes, shoulder wings and enticing textures.

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