PROPOSAL OMOTESANDO FASHION MUSEUM – TOKYO – JAPAN

ARCHITECT DONALD SHEK – Multi-layered Architecture – www.designboom.com

WHY NOT IN FLORENCE?

LINDA LOPPA

STEPHEN JONES & THE ACCENT OF FASHION

An exhibition in MoMu – Antwerp

8 september 2010 / 13 february 2011

Photo Nick Knight, 1985

www.momu.be

Upcoming

From 8 September 2010 until 13 February 2011, the MoMu–Fashion Museum in Antwerp will present a retrospective exhibition of the work of British milliner Stephen Jones. This autumn, Jones celebrates the 30th anniversary of his House, Stephen Jones Millinery. We are pleased to mark that anniversary with an exceptional exhibition. The MoMu–Fashion Museum houses the largest collection of Stephen Jones hats – more than 120 items – outside Great Britain, thanks to a long-term loan by the Antwerp private collectors, Geert Bruloot and Eddy Michiels.

The exhibition Stephen Jones & The Accent of Fashion guides you through the unique world of a hatmaker who has worked with many of the greatest names in the international fashion scene for three decades: Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Comme des Garçons, Claude Montana, John Galliano, Christian Dior, Azzedine Alaïa,Walter Van Beirendonck, Marc Jacobs, and many more. Stephen Jones plays a unique behind-the-scenes role in fashion because of the unparalleled freedom he is given by designers, allowing his work to influence the image of a collection. Just as accents in language lead to the correct reading and rhythm of a text, Jones’s hats add the appropriate punctuation to a designer’s fashion statement.

As well as Stephen Jones’s numerous collaborations with designers, the exhibition also looks more closely at his work in film, music and photography, his early years in the London of the New Romantics, his unique relationship with fashion icon Anna Piaggi, his design process and the sources of inspiration behind his creations.

www.momu.be

SUMMER TIP: VENICE

Venezia – Punto della Dogana
Charles Ray Boy with Frog, 2009

Visit:
Louise Bourgeois The Fabric Works – Venezia 2010 – Fondazione Emilio e Annabianca Vedova

Linda Loppa intervista: Angelo Figus

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“J’ai toujours placé
au-dessus de tout le respect
de ce métier, qui n’est pas
tout à fait un art mais
qui a besoin d’un artiste
pour exister” (YSL)

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Linda Loppa intervista: Patrizia Josefa Antonacci

1.Patrizia, at the University of Bari you wrote your thesis on “Footwear: civilisation and art in the History of Fashion”. In 2008 you attended a seminar at the Villa Bardini at the Fondazione Roberto Capucci a seminar on “Colours” and before you attended a cutting and tailoring course at the Atelier de Chirico at Bari and had several job experiences in the fashion sector in Puglia. What made you decide to attend the master in Footwear design?

Ho sempre saputo quello che volevo fare nella mia vita, ed era lavorare nella moda come creativa. Ho studiato per tre anni all’Università, e mi sono resa conto che oltre ad essere necessario una buona cultura teorica del settore moda, non potevo trascurare la parte pratica di questo mestiere. Ho sempre avuto una predilezione per la calzatura così ho deciso di specializzarmi con un master. Dopo aver vagliato alcune scuole, ho scelto il Polimoda perché era l’unica che ti offriva l’opportunità di apprendere a realizzare da sola le scarpe, come un’apprendista che va a imparare il mestiere a bottega.

My whole life I have always known that I wanted to work as a fashion designer. I studied 3 years at University, and I realized that as well as having a good theoretical culture in the fashion field, it is also necessary a practical knowledge of this profession. I have always felt a preference for footwear design and therefore I chose to specialize with a master in footwear. After having evaluated some different schools, I choose Polimoda because it’s the only school offering the possibility of realizing the craftsmanship of shoemaking.

2.When I asked you for witch designer you would like to work you named Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier and Maison Martin Margiela. It seems you are attracted by the ironic or the unexpected “clin d’oeil” of fashion. Viktor & Rolf would suite you as well…Where is this ironic eye coming from? Do you think fashion is too serious?

La moda è lo specchio della società e dei gusti del tempo in cui viviamo.
Con la nascita del fast fashion e dei prodotti di consumo di massa, la moda si è “democratizzata” i prezzi sono scesi e le produzioni sono aumentate, incrementando l’omologazione tra gli individui. Le scarpe e i vestiti hanno perso la loro dignità di un tempo, in questo periodo l’unico obiettivo è vendere. Per questo penso che la moda sia troppo seria e che si prenda troppo sul serio. Moschino, JPG, Margiela, V&R sono tra quei Brands che, fanno parte del sistema moda, ma allo stesso tempo ne prendono le distanze con autoironia. Penso che questa sia l’atteggiamento giusto anche nella vita: La vita è un gioco, e non vale la pena viverla senza un pizzico di follia e creatività.

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