FELICE PIACENZA
Posted on July 31 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Felice Piacenza graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Felice Piacenza was born into “a world of wool and cashmere” and raised amongst fabric specialists. His relatives founded Piacenza textiles in 1733. The designer explores a re-interpretation of menswear by fusing his family history with elements of the Indian Ladakhi tribe. Felice understands his fabrics and enjoys exploring them under new perspectives. For his graduating collection Skandha he proposes double wools, cashmere, quilted knits, cotton, alpaca and a crease-free cotton-neoprene blend. Amongst the collection’s highlights are coats with double necklines, ruched armholes, shoulder wings and enticing textures.

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BEATRICE SALVATORI
Posted on July 25 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Beatrice Salvatori graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

We live in a world in which our identity is constantly being questioned. Clothing, however, communicates our place and does so without filters. This is the aspect of fashion that has inspired Beatrice Salvatori for her fall/winter womenswear collection Unknown People. In particular, the women of the Monte Hermoso community in Spain, showing how a simple accessory or hat, can “say” much about their social status. The hat is the accessory that plays the leading role of all the outfits. Coats, jackets and voluminous skirts are in contrast with shirts and trousers that cling to the body. The fabrics, for the most part technical, also reach the shoes, creating innovative looks in a mix of elegance and practicality.

Collection description by Martina Giambi – Master in Fashion Writing

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JENNIFER DALL’ARMELLINA
Posted on July 18 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Jennifer Dall'Armellina graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Jennifer Dall’Armellina loves to experiment with new materials, uprooting them from their original field and reusing them in that of fashion. The men’s collection Leon Blanc was born from such an attitude, which combines interest in the materials used in Ladin garments with ergonomic shapes of traditional Albanian clothes. Silk, cotton and wool are combined with loden, neoprene and plastic chips.

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LARA DE BAENST
Posted on July 11 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Lara de Baenst graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Lara de Baenst celebrates the perfect symmetry and equilibrium of proportions in Echoism. Her winter collection is inspired by the images created by the artist Julian Wolkenstein, lover of symmetrical faces; a perfect mirror image. The same harmony of forms is applied in all the outfits of the collection. Emphasised shoulders, waistlines marked by vast belts and wide volumes, create a new feminine silhouette. Despite the geometric lines and rigid materials, it is a triumph of femininity and elegance, enlivened by a palette that includes pink, blue and yellow. Even tartan makes an appearance. The novelty, without doubt, is silicon which joins with more common materials such as wool and cashmere, giving a sculptured and refined look to the coat.

Collection description by Marta Melini – Master in Fashion Writing

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MARCO CIABATTI
Posted on July 4 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Marco Ciabatti graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Marco Ciabatti, Casentino by birth, pays tribute to his origins by an extensive use in his fall/winter men’s collection I Hate Being Cold of the fabric that is typical of his area, precisely called Casentino fabric. Receiving inspiration from the ecclesiastical world, the coats have ample volumes, expanded even more by internal padding. We then move on to a more classic and tailored cut of jackets, shirts and trousers, made from high quality fabrics such as cashmere and silk. Elegant looks with a serious and playful tone, while at the same time, intense colours such as orange, blue and white give hints of imagination and sophistication.

Collection description by Martina Giambi – Master in Fashion Writing

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MICHELLE YANG
Posted on June 27 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Michelle Yang graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Michelle Yang is a young South Korean fashion designer who is inspired by the cultural richness of her homeland. She uses design methodologies particular to Europe. Michelle possesses vast experience doing what she loves best: designing and making clothes. Her collection If Only for a Moment was inspired by themes of Nick Cave’s Night of the Lotus Eaters. Her collection focuses on tension & flow created through the extension of the body through metal structures and draped silhouettes.

She has interpreted her inspiration in a carefree way using contrasting stark metal structures with floating organza, fusing hand-painted silicone prints with lightweight silk, and supported the outcome with an embroidered elastic coding.

Collection description by Kulanthi Silva – Master in Fashion Writing

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DANIELE DELL’ANNA
Posted on June 20 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Daniele Dell'Anna collection

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

The menswear collection of Daniele Dell’Anna comes from a black-and-white photograph of his Fathers first communion. An immaculate purity, reproduced by the simple linear forms of the men’s outfits of Io Cammino. Red stitch detailing on black fabric bring to mind school days, corrections and homework, but also express the designer’s sense of restlessness and interior disorder. A strong contrast therefore between the apparent linearity of forms and the clear agitation of the creator, symbolically protected by the bodices on which the garments are built, for a tailored menswear collection yet to be interpreted.

Collection description by Marta Melini – Master in Fashion Writing

Daniele Dell'Anna collection

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DIANE PERNET & DANILO VENTURI
Posted on June 19 in Danilo Venturi, INTERVIEWS

Diane Pernet, from A Shaded View On Fashion (ASVOFF), interviews Danilo Venturi on the occasion of the launch of his book MOMENTING THE MEMENTO, theme of the IFFTI 2015 Conference. Two short talks about past, future, fashion, education and… Florence.

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
Posted on June 13 in EVENTS, NEWS, Polimoda Show

Polimoda Show 2014 - sketch by Daniele dell'Anna

FITTING PERFORMANCE, NEW FORMAT & LIVE STREAMING

Polimoda plays a lead role during the week of Pitti Uomo 86 with its double appointments.
On 15 June, the Fitting Performance which transforms Villa Favard into a full stage of real tableaux vivants: an original way of presenting the 80 collections of the students in Fashion Design & Fashion Technology. A series of live performances, before the eyes of the public, will animate the garden and the rooms of the Villa.

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VENICE BIENNALE 2014
Posted on June 9 in EVENTS, Linda Loppa

IMG_7830

The 14th biennale for architecture in Venice will last for 6 Months. This means architecture joins the cultural and research domain. Rem Koolhaas defines his Biennale as “A research Biennale” a biennale of “Architecture without Architects”. Mister Paolo Baratta President of the Biennale pointed out ‘architecture lives when it is desired by all of us’.

Rem Koolhaas curator of the biennale, invites you to reflect on the effects of modernisation on architecture. There are no major star architects invited to the biennale. So, please look through the eyes of architecture to 100 years of history, between 1914 and 2014.

Monditalia is a kind of self-portrait, a medical scan of Italy. Rem asked himself why Italy? Because it is a crucial country in the world, with incredible ups and downs, not living at its maximum capacity and potential, struggling what it eventually could be.

The long relationship Rem Koolhaas has with Harvard pushed him to reflect on archiving the past and the mutations in the style of living. The Swiss pavilion with Hans Ulrich Obrist as curator focused on the archive of Cedric Price (1934-2003) and Lucius Burckhardt (1925-2003) and the “Fun Palace” of Cedric Prize is the laboratory idea we are looking for today to start re-thinking and working on the multidisciplinary approach.

At the end of the conference when questions raised from journalists about the absence of contemporary architecture in the Biennale Rem said it is because it is a crucial moment for architecture and therefore we need research more than ever. At first sight the title “Fundamentals“ in the Italian central pavilion, was very promising, at second view it might be a disappointment for those who are looking for the “new” and the “spectacular”. Sometimes he asks us to go through our archives and debate whether to destroy our heritage or conserve and restore it, or he asks us to look at the innovations of technology on basic elements such as staircases, corridors or balconies. The exhibition is on the edge of becoming a fair for new technologies.

It is not a Biennale about architects, but about architecture and therefore we miss the stardom; it is a biennale for architects and not for stars, and therefore we might be disappointed somehow.

When starting to think and work with the national pavilions, Rem Koolhaas questioned the national identity, but as every country has been destroyed, rebuilt, destroyed, rebuilt, he felt that it is a moment of pulse for the countries to present their point of view.  Therefore he pointed to the responsibility of archiving. The Bahrain installation was breath taking. The exhibition is an exploration of the links between colonialism, fundamentalism and modernity across the Arab Word, in an effort to understand the links between each of these movements and their relation to the architecture of the time. Rem briefed the different countries about their past and their archives; he also asked to reflect on the process of rasure of national characteristics in architecture in favour of a almost universal modern language. Some pavilions respected to much the theme of 100 years of archivino; some such as Spain and Belgium remained close to the theme but made a shift by curating the space such as they did before; for the viewer more pleasant, for the architects maybe back to concept, but anyway inspiring for the visitor. Others pavilions such as Japan were transformed into a “storehouse”; as we live in chaos this might reflect more the mood of the time we live in, filled with the testaments of 100 year history of Japan architecture.

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REM KOOLHAAS fundamentals
Posted on June 2 in NEWS

fundamentals - elements

www.labiennale.org

LOUISE WILSON
Posted on May 18 in Linda Loppa

Louise Wilson

I met Louise in Paris at the LVMH prize at the end of February this year. We already knew each other when she came to Antwerp many years ago and we shared the same methods of education. In Paris she was disappointed and critical and thought the designers should have been in their showrooms selling their collections, speaking to their clients. Of course she was right, but what hit me the most was her anger, her passion and attitude towards the system protecting creativity “to court”.
In her 2011 SHOW studio interview she speaks openly about the “pressure” and “the need to succeed” that students have today, simply because of the investments their families have made for them to be able to study in an art school. We can’t make any mistakes anymore…it all has to be perfect. Her anger is justified because the industry asks for people who are as strong creatively as they are in translating ideas into a commercial context.
As course director of Central Saint Martins she performed miracles through talking to people, inspiring them and asking them to deliver their very best in a field that is more than an industry; it is a laboratory for interdisciplinary practice and discussions, a workplace were we invent or reinvent the body and body language, or simply, were we design a good garment.

Dear Louise, we will miss you very much…

 

Linda Loppa

 

Sunday May 18th 2014