JENNIFER DALL’ARMELLINA
Posted on July 18 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Jennifer Dall'Armellina graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Jennifer Dall’Armellina loves to experiment with new materials, uprooting them from their original field and reusing them in that of fashion. The men’s collection Leon Blanc was born from such an attitude, which combines interest in the materials used in Ladin garments with ergonomic shapes of traditional Albanian clothes. Silk, cotton and wool are combined with loden, neoprene and plastic chips.

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LARA DE BAENST
Posted on July 11 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Lara de Baenst graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Lara de Baenst celebrates the perfect symmetry and equilibrium of proportions in Echoism. Her winter collection is inspired by the images created by the artist Julian Wolkenstein, lover of symmetrical faces; a perfect mirror image. The same harmony of forms is applied in all the outfits of the collection. Emphasised shoulders, waistlines marked by vast belts and wide volumes, create a new feminine silhouette. Despite the geometric lines and rigid materials, it is a triumph of femininity and elegance, enlivened by a palette that includes pink, blue and yellow. Even tartan makes an appearance. The novelty, without doubt, is silicon which joins with more common materials such as wool and cashmere, giving a sculptured and refined look to the coat.

Collection description by Marta Melini – Master in Fashion Writing

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MARCO CIABATTI
Posted on July 4 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Marco Ciabatti graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Marco Ciabatti, Casentino by birth, pays tribute to his origins by an extensive use in his fall/winter men’s collection I Hate Being Cold of the fabric that is typical of his area, precisely called Casentino fabric. Receiving inspiration from the ecclesiastical world, the coats have ample volumes, expanded even more by internal padding. We then move on to a more classic and tailored cut of jackets, shirts and trousers, made from high quality fabrics such as cashmere and silk. Elegant looks with a serious and playful tone, while at the same time, intense colours such as orange, blue and white give hints of imagination and sophistication.

Collection description by Martina Giambi – Master in Fashion Writing

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MICHELLE YANG
Posted on June 27 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Michelle Yang graduate collection - Polimoda Show 2014

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

Michelle Yang is a young South Korean fashion designer who is inspired by the cultural richness of her homeland. She uses design methodologies particular to Europe. Michelle possesses vast experience doing what she loves best: designing and making clothes. Her collection If Only for a Moment was inspired by themes of Nick Cave’s Night of the Lotus Eaters. Her collection focuses on tension & flow created through the extension of the body through metal structures and draped silhouettes.

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DANIELE DELL’ANNA
Posted on June 20 in Polimoda Show, TALENTS

Daniele Dell'Anna collection

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
“The Best Of” Fashion Design final collections

The menswear collection of Daniele Dell’Anna comes from a black-and-white photograph of his Fathers first communion. An immaculate purity, reproduced by the simple linear forms of the men’s outfits of Io Cammino. Red stitch detailing on black fabric bring to mind school days, corrections and homework, but also express the designer’s sense of restlessness and interior disorder. A strong contrast therefore between the apparent linearity of forms and the clear agitation of the creator, symbolically protected by the bodices on which the garments are built, for a tailored menswear collection yet to be interpreted.

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DIANE PERNET & DANILO VENTURI
Posted on June 19 in Danilo Venturi, INTERVIEWS

Diane Pernet, from A Shaded View On Fashion (ASVOFF), interviews Danilo Venturi on the occasion of the launch of his book MOMENTING THE MEMENTO, theme of the IFFTI 2015 Conference. Two short talks about past, future, fashion, education and… Florence.

POLIMODA SHOW 2014
Posted on June 13 in EVENTS, NEWS, Polimoda Show

Polimoda Show 2014 - sketch by Daniele dell'Anna

FITTING PERFORMANCE, NEW FORMAT & LIVE STREAMING

Polimoda plays a lead role during the week of Pitti Uomo 86 with its double appointments.
On 15 June, the Fitting Performance which transforms Villa Favard into a full stage of real tableaux vivants: an original way of presenting the 80 collections of the students in Fashion Design & Fashion Technology. A series of live performances, before the eyes of the public, will animate the garden and the rooms of the Villa.

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VENICE BIENNALE 2014
Posted on June 9 in EVENTS, Linda Loppa

IMG_7830

The 14th biennale for architecture in Venice will last for 6 Months. This means architecture joins the cultural and research domain. Rem Koolhaas defines his Biennale as “A research Biennale” a biennale of “Architecture without Architects”. Mister Paolo Baratta President of the Biennale pointed out ‘architecture lives when it is desired by all of us’.

Rem Koolhaas curator of the biennale, invites you to reflect on the effects of modernisation on architecture. There are no major star architects invited to the biennale. So, please look through the eyes of architecture to 100 years of history, between 1914 and 2014.

Monditalia is a kind of self-portrait, a medical scan of Italy. Rem asked himself why Italy? Because it is a crucial country in the world, with incredible ups and downs, not living at its maximum capacity and potential, struggling what it eventually could be.

The long relationship Rem Koolhaas has with Harvard pushed him to reflect on archiving the past and the mutations in the style of living. The Swiss pavilion with Hans Ulrich Obrist as curator focused on the archive of Cedric Price (1934-2003) and Lucius Burckhardt (1925-2003) and the “Fun Palace” of Cedric Prize is the laboratory idea we are looking for today to start re-thinking and working on the multidisciplinary approach.

At the end of the conference when questions raised from journalists about the absence of contemporary architecture in the Biennale Rem said it is because it is a crucial moment for architecture and therefore we need research more than ever. At first sight the title “Fundamentals“ in the Italian central pavilion, was very promising, at second view it might be a disappointment for those who are looking for the “new” and the “spectacular”. Sometimes he asks us to go through our archives and debate whether to destroy our heritage or conserve and restore it, or he asks us to look at the innovations of technology on basic elements such as staircases, corridors or balconies. The exhibition is on the edge of becoming a fair for new technologies.

It is not a Biennale about architects, but about architecture and therefore we miss the stardom; it is a biennale for architects and not for stars, and therefore we might be disappointed somehow.

When starting to think and work with the national pavilions, Rem Koolhaas questioned the national identity, but as every country has been destroyed, rebuilt, destroyed, rebuilt, he felt that it is a moment of pulse for the countries to present their point of view.  Therefore he pointed to the responsibility of archiving. The Bahrain installation was breath taking. The exhibition is an exploration of the links between colonialism, fundamentalism and modernity across the Arab Word, in an effort to understand the links between each of these movements and their relation to the architecture of the time. Rem briefed the different countries about their past and their archives; he also asked to reflect on the process of rasure of national characteristics in architecture in favour of a almost universal modern language. Some pavilions respected to much the theme of 100 years of archivino; some such as Spain and Belgium remained close to the theme but made a shift by curating the space such as they did before; for the viewer more pleasant, for the architects maybe back to concept, but anyway inspiring for the visitor. Others pavilions such as Japan were transformed into a “storehouse”; as we live in chaos this might reflect more the mood of the time we live in, filled with the testaments of 100 year history of Japan architecture.

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REM KOOLHAAS fundamentals
Posted on June 2 in NEWS

fundamentals - elements

www.labiennale.org

LOUISE WILSON
Posted on May 18 in Linda Loppa

Louise Wilson

I met Louise in Paris at the LVMH prize at the end of February this year. We already knew each other when she came to Antwerp many years ago and we shared the same methods of education. In Paris she was disappointed and critical and thought the designers should have been in their showrooms selling their collections, speaking to their clients. Of course she was right, but what hit me the most was her anger, her passion and attitude towards the system protecting creativity “to court”.
In her 2011 SHOW studio interview she speaks openly about the “pressure” and “the need to succeed” that students have today, simply because of the investments their families have made for them to be able to study in an art school. We can’t make any mistakes anymore…it all has to be perfect. Her anger is justified because the industry asks for people who are as strong creatively as they are in translating ideas into a commercial context.
As course director of Central Saint Martins she performed miracles through talking to people, inspiring them and asking them to deliver their very best in a field that is more than an industry; it is a laboratory for interdisciplinary practice and discussions, a workplace were we invent or reinvent the body and body language, or simply, were we design a good garment.

Dear Louise, we will miss you very much…

 

Linda Loppa

 

Sunday May 18th 2014

TREND TANK
Posted on May 17 in INTERVIEWS, Linda Loppa, TALENTS

TRENDtank - MELTalt

Linda Loppa
interviews the five Polimoda former students (Jessica Smith – Editorial Specialist, Nancy Zamudio – Head of Communications, Kasia Łuczak – Creative Strategist, Bernina Chan – Planning Producer, Mylène Lemercier – Multimedia Designer), founders of TRENDtank, a brand new trend forecasting agency based in London.

Dear Kasia, dear Mylène, dear Bernina, dear Nancy, dear Jessica, It feels it’s a great achievement that before you left Polimoda and Florence finishing your Fashion Trend Forecasting Master course you founded your company named TRENDtank. Not only is it a great website and content is appealing but it and goes to the point of what you can offer to a company in need of visionaries looking to the future able to implement ideas in their products. You are 5 women with different cultural backgrounds but it seems destiny brought you together. I have a few questions about this idea of starting a business together…

TRENDtank - logo

1. How and when came the idea of making TRENDtank and building a company together?

First of all, thank you Linda for having us, we appreciate your time and interest. It’s true, we started developing TRENDtank while still studying our master’s last year. A year ago, we found ourselves fully inspired, coming from different backgrounds with similar goals. Polimoda was a great starting point for us, bringing us all together, an opportunity that would have been quite difficult otherwise. Our idea for TRENDtank slowly built up along the year as we realised a gap in the trend forecasting industry. Wanting to express our vision, we knew we had to start while still in Florence, before we would split again.

2. It seems you are complementary, skill wise and cultural experience wise. How many languages do you speak all together?

Yes, coming from diverse cultural and professional backgrounds, we do complement each other. We often laugh about how we have bonded despite different personalities. In terms of skills it is an indisputable asset. We speak 9 languages among all of us: English, Spanish, German, Polish, French, Portuguese, Italian, Mandarin and Cantonese.

3. What companies are you targeting?

TRENDtank’s portfolio of clients is quite varied. Although our services are very attractive for companies operating around fashion and lifestyle, these aren’t the only industries we target. Jewellery and hospitality are also sectors we are involved in. The attitude of the client we work for is much more important for us than their field. We want to help farsighted brands that care for their long-term goals. Brands that want to establish trends rather than follow them. If you’re both grounded and open for change, we’re able to do great things together.

4. Where do you get your information from?

Our content comes from a wide range of sources both online and offline. There are no boundaries in our research, as being trend forecasters we cannot be biased to one domain. We tend to start collecting information from different areas (e.g. technology, art, music) observing human behaviours, current social and cultural movements as well as their anthropological roots. We gather primary research through interviews and observations, as well as collect resources from exhibitions, films, gigs, music, fashion shows, design weeks, press, online media… As context is specifically important for us, we show relationships between current affairs and both historical and philosophical knowledge.

5. Your pictures are great and the site is very fresh and goes to the point. How do you translate the ideas in a trend book for a company?

Thank you. We work hard to select the imagery that not only illustrates evidence of the concepts we work on, but also gives them another, more metaphysical dimension. Developing each trend, we want to show its multiple facets. It helps to apply the concepts into different contexts and plan tangible brand actions. The most important for strategic solutions is to show that every tangible action has a theoretical base: scientific, economic, social and cultural. Spotting trends in these areas at an early stage allows our clients to adopt them in disruptive ways.

6. For the section portfolio you work on five different themes: NARCISSISTIC FEARDOM / SCHIZONOLOGY / TOTEMOSOPHY SOFT HEROINE / IN-BETWEEN-NESS. Can you explain the different categories and why they are important for your research?

As the starting point of TRENDtank, the current portfolio is where our eclectic inspirations, visions and design aesthetics come together, creating the unique identity of TRENDtank. The variety is essential. NARCISSISTIC FEARDOM uncovers what increasingly drives our decisions: on one hand our inner admiration, on the other hand our outer fears. As we become increasingly self-centred, constant anxieties over impairing ourselves and losing others’ approval instigate other fears. Yearning validation, we seek solutions to either conquer or simply embrace Narcissistic Feardom. SCHIZONOLOGY reflects the inner battle and mental instability we are facing in an increasingly mechanistic and decontextualized world. With our balance of thought shifting towards the external objects (particularly technological devices) at the expense of the more natural self, we search for recovery to relieve our tensions. Nature is seen as the cure. TOTEMOSOPHY talks about the return to the primitive self with an emphasis on our inner animal, our totem fundamental to our healthy lifestyle. Reconnecting with all aspects of the self requires a phase of purification of the human nature. At a time of enhanced mobility, success to survive anywhere lays in the concept of totemism – ‘being whole’ and knowing one’s true self. SOFT HEROINE shows that femininity is an understated strength. Soft power is the ability to attract and co-opt rather than coerce or use violence. The heroine may be strong, while being fragile – a personality collage – a one of a kind mixture of experiences and traits. Instead of imposing, she proposes. The Soft Heroine is in touch with herself and her fragility. Thus making her self-aware, empathetic, and graceful. IN-BETWEEN-NESS is the metaphor of the world seen in a state of doubtful equilibrium, with no spatial borders, nor time constraints. It is an interzone, a middle ground, where opposites meet and merge into hybrids. There, we find ourselves constantly oscillating betwixt polarities, like a swinging pendulum. In-Between-ness suggests dissatisfaction and a constant longing for a resolution – a never-ending process. Covering a vast range of areas from archetypes to emerging social behaviours, the different categories highlight our diverse thought processes and perspectives on the future. This is important for our research as it provides the ultimate foundation for a perfect blend of individual ideas. We aim to show TRENDtank’s ability to concatenate the essence of different pathways into effective and unique applications for brands.

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POWER MAN
Posted on May 16 in TALENTS

Nadia Zehra - Power Man Bricklane

Another great photoshoot from Polimoda graduates Nadia & Zehra Mustafa: an East-End London full of colors, street art and background graffiti. As NZ Twins state: “On Monday 7th April we did our Power Man shoot at Bricklane. The photos have now been edited and we are excited to share them with you!! We love our model Ramario-Chevoy. He made this shoot so much fun. Our talented photographer Ciaran Christopher who also edited the photos, captured movement and life perfectly.”

Nadia Zehra - Power Man Bricklane

Nadia Zehra - Power Man Bricklane

Nadia Zehra - Power Man Bricklane

Nadia Zehra - Power Man Bricklane

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