MOMENTING THE MEMENTO
Posted on May 7 in DANILO VENTURI, NEWS / NOVITA' by linda loppa

MOMENTING THE MEMENTO

We need a post[mode]rn [Flo]re:science,­ a Renai[chance] for our city,­ actually looking like an [ego]nomically H&Mized Louis Vuit[town]­ tuned on a dead Chan[n]el n.5

A curatorial project starts when something sick has to be cured [or curated]. From George Bush’s shocking-and-astonishing Baghdad bombing night-time TV show, continuing on with liquid heavens of digital non-places, we don’t live real moments of ours to be [im]pressed forever, we just typify time and space posting impressive third party pictures and, as a consequence, all what we do is rattle off a sequence of ‘sort-ofs’.

The real moment is a nomad monad, a situation in which time and space ultimately overlap, in which the relative becomes absolute, and the transient event becomes an emotional memory. Memories are not to be the dusty folders of our brain, they have to stay settled only for a while, because they are asked to produce new actions that potentially become absolute, new emotions, new nomads in search for monads.

Moreover, there is on one side the attraction for a photography’s fastness because its speed makes it immediate. While architecture’s timing and placing is usually measured in years, an image can be captured in a fraction of a second. On the other hand, photography is more pressing as it is based on capturing a transient absolute that, after that fraction of a second, would be only relative.

The real moment is not the moment for real, or the modernist present-become past-become future, it’s rather a continuously constructed, deconstructed and reconstructed composition of time and space bindings.­ It’s not the historical straightforwardness but a self-referential presence [or lack of absence]. It’s not the dualism between good and bad, clean and dirty, innocent and guilty, but a conscious lost innocence, good and dirty [or bad and clean]. The real moment is not a photographed memorial of time and space, archived and posted. It’s not an H&Mized-Renaissance tour-operated city. Nor a fashion fossil exposed in a museum. The real moment is authentic, literally self-standing and capable of further actions. It’s Re:naissance and authenti[city].

Purchased experiences don’t count and shopping is not creating. Florence needs a conversational project to heal from the small-city-syndrome, to become once again “Truth is no more than a variety of error” Friedrich Nietzsche a city on the move, a large collage of interconnected activities, of parallel universes, minds and streets. It needs to become an urban laboratory gathering visual and plastic art, fashion, architecture, writing and poetry, and theatre, as well as science. It needs new blood, a contamination of heterogeneous points of view, an injection of thoughtful creativeness. It needs a production-of-reality educational moment where the city is not exhibited but is the exhibition itself, a per-formative milieu with an augmented metabolism able to investigate non-applicable models. It needs a non-target-oriented educational moment where unpredictability, failure and error are allowed to happen. Only through these highly non-linear diagrams of psycho-geography we are able to not for-get, to produce memorable non-commercial memories, a protest in the sense of pro-test, an anti-authoritative moment that doesn’t necessarily mean oppositional, but simply authentic.

Let’s do it. Florence lives magic and fear, like every city today. It’s not Las Vegas [the city without errors], or Disneyland [the adventure without risk], its nicest place is not McDonald’s [as Andy Warhol once sarcastically said], and education is not instruction, it’s not the object of study, but the work to make it. Routine is the worst enemy, so let’s start with some international and interdisciplinary conversation to convert [and converse] Florence into what it is.

Momenting the Memento means to give life to archi[textures], new memories of habitus meeting the habitat, instead of archiving and celebrating the previous ones. Quit recycling the past and start up-cycling the future. So, let’s take fashion out from its reliquaries, let its Renaissance shine again out of the current multi-clustered, conflictual [but also convergent] spirit of time. Let education be writing instead of only be reading. Let the statues come out from the colourful postcards and walk like living human beings, let’s give Florence a Renai[chance] before the posthuman is reduced to the postman, and our so modernisms become obsolete wasms.

Danilo Venturi – Researcher, Head Of Department International Masters Polimoda , & lecturer – March 2012

SOURCES

Amendola G., “La Città Postmoderna”, Editori Laterza, Bari, 2003

Coupland D., “Generation X”, Hachette, London, 1991

Jencks C., “The Post-Modern Reader”, John Wiley and Sons Ltd, London, 2011

Lemoine-Luccioni E., “Psicoanalisi della Moda”, Bruno Mondadori, Milano, 2002

Obrist H.U., “Everything You Always Wanted to Know about Curating”, Sternberg Press,NY/Berlin, 2006

Venturi D., “Luxury Hackers”, Lindau, Torino, 2011

PEEPHOLES
Posted on May 6 in EVENTS by linda loppa

STROZZINA FIRENZE – AMERICAN DREAMERS

Patrick Jacobs creates meticulously crafted miniature environments as dioramas that are viewable only through peepholes and portholes in the walls. When entering a gallery containing his pieces, for a moment one may think that the space is empty. By peering into the small holes, as if spying through a keyhole, the viewer is confronted with luminous landscapes, close-ups of meadows or the interiors of an apartment through which a window leads the observer into an even deeper realm.
Through the use of intense lighting and circular convex lenses that amplify the depth and alter the visual perception of the viewer, Jacobs creates artificial, heightened realities whose intensity exceeds what is experienced in everyday life. In works like Fairy Ring with Dandelions, and Mushroom Clusters #1 and #2, the perceived worlds seem subtly enhanced, where devoid of the presence of human figures, viewers are free to imagine themselves as the sole protagonist within the dioramic scene.
Interior with View of Gowanus Heights presents a situation that is not typically part of Jacobs’ other creations.
Continue to read / Continua a leggere

FASHION FUTURES
Posted on May 6 in NEWS / NOVITA' by linda loppa

BY BRADLEY QUINN

A GREAT BOOK AND GREAT CHAPTERS!

EXTREME STYLE / POWER AND PERFORMANCE / MAVERICK MATERIALS / FUTURE FABRICATION / RADICAL RETAIL / FUTURE HORIZONS.

TO READ, LINDA LOPPA

Critics by Author: KatherineMCarrollPublished: Mar 07, 2012 at 2:19 pm

Read more: http://blogcritics.org/books/article/book-review-fashion-futures-by-bradley/#ixzz1u6FHXfCy

Fashion Futures by Bradley Quinn explores how technology is changing textiles and how clothes are worn and experienced through interviews from people in the industry and a wide array of photography. The photos and cover design make it a great coffee table book but the insightful predictions and interviews with the most cutting edge designers, engineers and marketing executives working in the fashion industry also make this book a must-read for those interested in fashion. Quinn is a British journalist who frequently contributes to trend forecasting guides. He has also written several books on fashion and design including Design Futures and Textile Designers at the Cutting Edge. There are many predictions made in this book that at first seem millions of years away. There are technologies and innovations written about in Fashion Futures that the Jetsons didn’t even have. But there on the pages in between the photographs is evidence that some of these materials are at the very least on the verge of being produced. Designers and engineers describe how they’ve started incorporating lights and digital technology into dresses and suits, and mood sensors that gauge how the wearer feels while wearing the outfit and adjust its colors accordingly. Say good-bye to traditional designs, materials, and shops. The future is more digitally based and mobile than anyone may realize. Quinn suggests that designs and textiles will be, and are starting to be, created more through specialized computer programs. Permanent neighborhood boutiques and stores may shift to pop-up shops and websites. Don’t worry about needing to try things on before you buy them; enter in your measurements and a digital mannequin will adjust to show you how garments will look on your body. Continue to read / Continua a leggere

LOVETT/CODAGNONE
Posted on May 6 in NEWS / NOVITA' by linda loppa

MUSEO MARINO MARINI

lovett \ codagnone – la verita’ e’ figlia del tempo non dell’autorita’/ truth is born of the times, not of authority

curated by alberto salvatori - may 4 / june 23, 2012 - opening: thursday, may 3, 2012, 6:30 pm

8.00 pm – like nightfall in the morning featuring sandra ceccarelli, gary indiana and marco mazzoni, by candidate lovett\codagnone - opening thursday, may 3, 2012, at the museo marino marini is la verita’ e’ figlia del tempo non dell’autorita’/ truth is born of the times, not of authority by lovett/codagnone, with michele pauli returning again to collaborate with them on sound.

curated by alberto salvadori and produced for the museum’s crypt, the installation grew from the reading and interpretation of a fundamental text of modern theatre, the life of galileo by bertolt brecht. the opening will include a performance of candidate like nightfall in the morning, with the participation of sandra ceccarelli, gary indiana, and marco mazzoni.

the work of the italian-american duo, which was established in 1995, ranges from photography to sculpture, and is always characterized by a desire to prevent the viewer from activating those identification systems that are the basis of the mimetic process that is a founding matrix of western art.

lovett \ codagnone never give preordained answers. instead, they express a willingness to involve the viewer critically, offering various possible interpretations, according to brechtian thinking. bearing witness to this are the words of feuchtwanger, friend of the great german playwright, in a special issue of the journal sinn und form, entirely dedicated to him: «he was convinced that a work of art grows and continues to work through its own strength, that it changes with every listener and reader it reaches. his works are built on this premise so that only in the future will all the greatness and depth of the work itself be visible.»

SEE www.museomarinomarini.it

NICK CAVE
Posted on April 30 in NEWS / NOVITA' by linda loppa

VISIT THE EXHIBITION IN STROZZINA – FIRENZE!!!

AMERICAN DREAMERY /REALITY AND IMAGINATION IN CONTEMPORARY ART.

Does the “American dream” still exist? The exhibition (9 March–15 July 2012) comprises a reflection on the work of artists who use fantasy, imagination and dreams to build alternative worlds to the increasingly complex reality of life today. Some condense the essence of reality into miniaturised systems while others expand outwards into space, and yet others feed on fantastic, dreamlike images or reflect on such symbolic themes as the home and the family, or the mass media imagery, which play even today a central role in the construction of the myth of the American way of life.

Artists: Laura Ball, Adrien Broom, Nick Cave, Will Cotton, Adam Cvijanovic, Richard Deon, Thomas Doyle, Mandy Greer, Kirsten Hassenfeld, Patrick Jacobs, Christy Rupp

This exhibition is organised by the CCC Strozzina in conjunction with the Hudson River Museum (Yonkers, New York, USA) and curated by Bartholomew F. Bland.

Opening hours: 9 March–15 July 2012 
Tuesday–Sunday 10.00–20.00 
free Thursdays 18.00–23.00

Info: tel. +39 055 2645155
news@strozzina.org

Nick Cave’s Soundsuits are colorful and extravagant “wearable sculptures” that the artist also uses as costumes for his performances. Thanks to their different material, they become an instrument for a multisensory experience in the amplification of the movement and for the creation of unexpected sound effects.

UNA TESTIMONIANZA
Posted on April 27 in COLUMNS / RUBRICHE by linda loppa

Il potere della foto di moda

“Al suo apice, la fotografia di moda è l’erede di uno dei più frivoli ma grandiosi progetti: la creazione di una testimonianza di quell’alone del  desiderio che sostiene l’umano bisogno di felicità, di serenità e di spensieratezza su questa terra” Alexsander Liberman.

text Lamberto Cantoni – docente Polimoda.

1. Se la moda viene riconosciuta oggi come uno dei dispositivi maggiormente implicati nel buon funzionamento delle società di mercato, infatti senza il ritmo accelerato di acquisti risulterebbe impossibile mantenere sotto controllo il PIL condannato alla costante crescita, lo si deve soprattutto al lavoro di amplificazione dei suoi effetti realizzato con la complicità della stampa e dei media.

E se è vero che la capacità dei media di cambiare le aspettative della gente fa sorgere più di un dubbio etico ai molti critici della post modernità, non possiamo disconoscere che senza di loro probabilmente i cambiamenti di stile di vita decisivi per la crescita costante dei mercati, difficilmente avrebbero potuto realizzarsi.

Per quanto riguarda la moda secondo la concezione che ha di essa il senso comune, la gente la pensa soprattutto in funzione dell’abbigliamento e accessori, siamo costretti a prendere molto sul serio l’ipotesi di una sostanziale autonomia delle immagini per quanto riguarda l’efficacia della sua comunicazione. Per chi opera nella moda e per chi la consuma con maggiore piacere, sembra che le parole per raccontarla abbiano scarsa importanza. Al contrario l’immagine esemplare di un prodotto è immaginata scatenare attenzione, interesse, emozioni… Dopo di che, l’azione di acquisto diviene una conseguenza collaterale scontata.

Continue to read / Continua a leggere

SALONE DEL MOBILE (?)
Posted on April 19 in NEWS / NOVITA' by linda loppa

MAURO GRIFONI – Exhibition 17 – 22  April

“MEETS NEW DESIGNERS” showcasing pieces by

Erik Bjerkesjo (polimodatalent), Matteo Cibic, Teresa Piardi & Alberto Simigaglia.

Many thanks to Mauro Grifoni!

Linda Loppa

A.F. VANDEVORST – TSTSITW
Posted on April 16 in NEWS / NOVITA' by francesco stralanchi

Yesterday evening we visited the opening of The Smallest Traveling Store in The World, a mini-guerilla shop by the Belgian design duo A.F.Vandevorst. The store-within-a-store took up residence at Patron of the New, a multi-brand boutique in Tribeca, New York. This is its first stop in the U.S. after being featured at places like The Dover Street Market and Selfridges in London.

Filip Arickx, who designs for the label with his wife An Vandevorst, was at the store and took a minute to walk me through the concept. “The store grew out of our initial guerrilla shop called AKTION, which we launched in Antwerp in 2009, and then moved around Belgium. We used Facebook and Twitter to tell our fans about the locations,” he said. Initially the couple did not think that much would come out of the project, but they quickly began getting inquiries about recreating the guerrilla store outside of Belgium. However, the logistics proved cumbersome and instead A.F.Vandevorst came up with the idea of creating a space that reflects their design ethos but is also easy to transport and install.

One of the earliest influences on their work were the military nurse uniforms (hence the red square as their logo). A.F.Vandevorst made a splash in the late 90s by showing their collections on models lying in hospital beds. Thence came the idea for TSTSITW, to recreate a hospital room. The hospital bed acts as the center piece, a place where you can sit down to try on shoes, the white screen next to the bed becomes the fitting room, and the hospital monitor becomes a device for viewing A.F.Vandevorst runway shows, so you can see how the clothes are styled.

On display were the signature A.F.Vandevorst pieces with military and equestrian influences, as well as their ruggedly elegant boots with wrap-around zippers. The shop has opened today and will run until February 24, after which it will move to another, yet-undisclosed U.S. location.

http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2012/02/a-f-vandevorst-tstsitw/

STYLE ZEITGEIST
Posted on April 16 in NEWS / NOVITA' by francesco stralanchi

Dear readers,

We are proud to announce the new issue of StyleZeitgeist magazine. The second step is as important as the first, and we have poured our hearts into the making of this volume. Our flagship article is about the deep friendship between PJ Harvey and Ann Demeulemeester and her husband, Patrick Robyn. It is accompanied by Robyn’s portraits of PJ Harvey, one of which graces the cover, in the clothes Demeulemeester designed for her Let England Shake tour. These ethereal images have never been published before and are our special gift to you.

We were also privileged to visit the apartment of the iconic photographer Deborah Turbeville where we had a conversation about her work, which, as we found out, is highly influenced by Proust and Dostoyevsky. This article features exclusive photography of Turbeville’s apartment and her archive by her art director, Tuomas Korpijakko.

For those of you who are interested in the intellectual side of fashion Cintra Wilson interviewed Valerie Steele, the director of the Museum at FIT. This fantastic interview comes with our own, exclusive images of the museum’s recent Daphne Guinness exhibit.

And to finish off our New York City trio, we have a photo essay of the city by our photo editor, Arto Puolimatka. Believe us, you have not seen New York like this.

We have traveled to Iceland twice – once to interview Sruli Recht in his studio and to witness his design magic, and another time for Erik Madigan Heck’s stunning photo shoot, The Icelandic Blue.

Speaking of photo shoots, we think you will appreciate our tribute to Joseph Beuys, America Still Likes Me, photographed by Jeff P. Elstone II, as well as Jennifer Tzar’s almost surreal Opus 40.

There is much more inside that we would like to show you. The magazine is available for preorder now. It will start shipping at the end of this month.

Thank you,
Eugene Rabkin

http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2012/04/new-issue-announcement/

DIOR
Posted on April 10 in NEWS / NOVITA' by linda loppa

Can you immagine that you are working with the “petits mains” who drape a pattern for a dress and compare the sketch to the hang of a skirt? Can you immagine your name is Raf Simons and that you enter the world of DIOR tomorrow and that you enter the history of fashion!

Good luck, Raf, you deserve it!
Linda Loppa

THE ABRAMOVIC METHOD
Posted on April 10 in NEWS / NOVITA' by evak

Marina Abramovic torna a Milano con un nuovo lavoro ideato per il PAC

Il PAC di Milano, dal 21 marzo al 10 giugno 2012, è lo spazio espositivo prescelto da Marina Abramović per il suo nuovo attesissimo lavoro, il primo dopo la grande retrospettiva del 2010 al MoMA di New York.

Partecipa personalmente alla Performance
- prenotazione obbligatoria (gruppi da 21 persone a turno)
- durata della performance: 2 ore

Dal 13 aprile al 10 giugno:
- martedì, mercoledì e sabato: 4 turni,ore 10:00/ 12:30/ 15:00/ 17:30
- giovedì, venerdì e domenica: 5 turni, ore 10:00/ 12:30/ 15:00/ 17:30/ 20:00

http://theabramovicmethod.it/

FREEDOM JUNKIE
Posted on April 3 in NEWS / NOVITA' by francesco stralanchi

In search of the ultimate freedom within oneself and from the conforms of social convention we set fourth on a pilgrimage into the future, embracing the earth as a home, a source of spirituality and the resource for sustainability. We travel alone and along the way are moved by unique individuals who become part of a network of neo nomads, a community of different cultures. The gain of knowledge and experience on ones journey outdoes the risk of loss and self-experimentation. Nothing can be gained without sacrifice.

Sharing and trading become ever present in a world suffering from economic and natural crises. The youth embrace a non-commitment culture and foster a fascination with the unknown. Social media acts as a family supporting the journey. Leaving ones comfort zone leads to a discomfort zone where the mind is open to experimentation and a heightened multisensory experience. Nature is represented in all forms of design in tactile textures and visually stimulating exotic prints. Natural dyes and earth tones speak to the emotions but are heightened into psychedelic hues and kaleidoscopes. In fashion there is a return to traditional techniques of craftsmanship, leatherwork and the weaving of textiles by hand. The triangle as a symbol is not only used in design but as a shelter symbol for survival. Portability becomes important as a rejection to materialism means that only a few sentimental and survival objects can be carried. The adornment of the body and embellishment is a way to express individualism and experience. Extreme forms of sport and festivals bring together communities that revel in nature and music.

Pushing the limits of life as a junkie can be a constructively self-destructive cycle.
The power of freedom uplifts the mind and soul and the fear of death disappears.

Abigal Rands, Ekaterina Roshchupkina, Magalhaes Raiana, Vicky Chiang Chia-Chi