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24 Sep

There’s Beauty on the Internet

Bottega Veneta SS17 - Mac desk

Imagine you’re at home behind your computer and you see the most elegant show in years, and tears drop from your eyes. It is possible! It happened to me this morning when I watched via streaming the 50 Years of Bottega Veneta fashion show. 78 silhouettes for men and woman who dress to reflect craft, style, elegance and simplicity, walked like demons of beauty to the sound of Laurie Anderson’s O Superman. Tomas Maier came out, not alone, but with the entire team who worked on this beautiful collection. I am so grateful to him that I can use the word beautiful again; I was hoping that one day an amazing knowledge of techniques, fabrics and colours could be translated in a blouse, a skirt, a dress, a sweater, a trouser, a jacket and a coat, and suddenly, unexpectedly, this morning I turned on my computer and saw just that.

My heart was beating here in Paris, and I felt I was right to continue to believe in style and beauty. After the London Fashion Week collections were based on collage, as Angelo Flaccavento so well described in his BoF article, ‘In London, Creativity lost in Collage,’ I finally can rely on my personal belief that fashion can and should be based on questioning beauty… always! Italy and fashion stood for luxury with Gianni Versace’s first collections shown at the end of the 70s. I was there, hoping I could buy the collection for my Antwerp store. Later this beauty of style and elegance was translated by Romeo Gigli, though of course it was Mr. Armani who was the first to show at beginning of the decade. Armani proved that as a retailer you could become a billionaire by showing suits for woman set in sober colours and innovative fabrics.

But what happened later? There was so much confusion in collective Italian taste, and the Dolce & Gabbana collections didn’t help. Showing first Sicilian beauty at the start of their career, later the kitsch and vulgarity was the start of a turning point in Italian fashion, of logos and cheap second lines. Today Milan Fashion is back and I feel happy for seeing Alessandro Michele, the young leader of creativity. He is the perfect example of what a new generation of designers and creators can achieve by showing extravagance combined with a personal signature, and putting Milan back on the map, all while respecting the legacy of Gucci and the best of Italian style.




Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha…
O Superman. O judge. O Mom and Dad. Mom and Dad
O Superman. O judge. O Mom and Dad. Mom and Dad
Mom and Dad, Ah ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

Lyrics by Laurie Anderson – O Superman

REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/in-london-creativity-lost-in-collage

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